Description and Installation of KleenPond Aeration Systems
The KleenPond aeration system has shown itself to be a very
efficient method of ponds and lakes. It achieves high oxygen
transfer with low maintenance and operating costs. The KleenPond
system is easy to install and is easily adaptable to a wide variety
of applications from small ponds to larger lakes.
The compressor is a 1/8 to 3/4 horse power rotary van oilless
unit, designed for continuous duty and low maintenance. They can be
wired for 115 or 230 volts. The compressors deliver from from 2 to
10 cubic feet per minute of air at up to ten pounds per square inch
of pressure. Each compressor is mounted in a protective cabinet
with a circulating fan and filters to provide continuous clean air
flow and cooling. The system can be purchased without the
protective case if it is to be mounted indoors.
The operating cost will depend upon the cost of electricity in
your area. Determine the cost per kilowatt hour (kWh) from your
electric bill (here is is 4.7 cents). Multiply this figure by 283
kWh for the KP523, or 642 kWh for the KP1023. This will give you
the cost of operating each unit 24/7. For example 283 X 4.7 =
1330.1 cents per month or $13.31. Using the same formula, the
KP1023 would cost $30.17 per month to operate.
The diffusers are self cleaning flexible neoprene sheath mounted
on a plastic base. Each diffuser can move 80,000 gallons of water
per hour, multiple diffusers may be used depending upon the
application. Air is supplied to the diffusers with 1/2 inch PVC
line in the water, larger airline is used for long runs.
- Decide the location of the compressor cabinet (near an
electrical outlet of appropriate voltage) that suits your needs.
Preferably a place that is level, that does not collect water, is
out of the way of lawn care equipment, and does not obstruct the
air intake on the cabinet.
- Add additional weight to the diffuser, usually a brick to each
side of the base.
- Attach the air hose to the compressor; and carefully unroll the
hose. If the line kinks, it should be cut at that location and an
insert coupling used to repair it. Kinks or crushed sections
will severely restrict airflow. Fittings
are available at most hardware stores, or you can get them from
- I recommend unrolling the air line along the shore
as far as possible, clamp it to the diffuser, add weight to the
diffuser, start the compressor so the trail of bubbles marks the
diffuser position, then carefully pull the diffuser into the water
with a boat while watching that the airline does not catch on
obstructions as it is pulled away from the shore. When you reach
the place where you want the diffuser, lower it with the float
- For small ponds a doubled rope line can be used instead of a
boat: start the compressor, loop one end of a rope through the
diffuser base, pull it about half way through or adjust it as you walk around
to the far side of the pond, then pull the diffuser into the pond to the desired location
(bubble location). When you are satisfied with the location Let go of one end of the rope, and pull the
other until all of the rope is out of the pond. The airline will float unless it is weighted
- The airline can be unrolled from a boat as it moves
away from shore, the diffuser attached in the boat, and then
lowered into the water by the float line, but this operation takes
quite a bit of coordination, and a helper is usually required.
Don't even attemp this on a windy day!
- The airline will float if it is not weighted. Fasten a brick or
other convenient weight to the line about every ten feet. The more
weights you use, the closer the line will be to the bottom.
Be sure you are satisfied with the location of
the diffuser before you weight the airline!
- When the unit is hooked up and running record the pressure
reading on the gage for later reference. Many problems can be
diagnosed by variations from the normal pressure reading. It should
be under 10 PSI. A reading higher than this may
indicate a restriction in the airline or water that is too deep for
the compressor. High pressure will wear out the compressor vanes
Manifold installation and operation (two or more
An external manifold can be inserted in the line at any
convenient location. Two primary concerns are convenience and
possible tampering (vandalism). I have placed the manifold out of
reach under water on several installations where tampering was a
problem. It can also be hidden along the shore in rocks, brush,
There are two basic types of installation for multiple
diffusers. One uses a manifold that can be reached from shore.
There would be a line running to each diffuser from the manifold.
This arrangement uses the most airline and causes the most line
loss. The system that uses the least airline uses one main line between the diffusers. Each diffuser has a valve on it. The diffuser in the deepest water does not need a valve, as it is under the most pressure. After the compressor is running and all of the air is
flowing to the deepest diffuser, go to the next diffuser, pull it up by the float line and open the valve a little. Then go to the
next diffuser and repeat the process. Each diffuser is adjusted in the same way until they are all operating. Another variation which
is a combination of the two is to run a main air line down one side of the lake and install a valve at several locations along this
line, then run a finger line to each diffuser. Many other variations of these layouts are possible.
Keep in mind that air will follow the path of least resistance.
That means it will go to the diffuser in the shallowest water
(lowest pressure). With the compressor running, and all valves
open, slowly close down the one that is flowing until approximate
equal air bubbles are seen at both diffuser locations. In multiple
diffuser installations, there may be one diffuser that is difficult
to get working. This is usually the one in the deepest water: close
all of the valves except this one. After flow is established,
slowly open the other valves one at a time until they are all
working. This may require a second person to watch from a different
location while you adjust the valves.
Caution: Do not leave the compressor idle for
weeks at a time. Condensation may rust the compression chamber so
that the compressor will not start. This can void the compressor
manufacturer's warranty and requires major repairs to correct!
Correcting Problems Caution: Compressor
parts may be HOT!
- Too few bubbles, not enough air at the diffuser.
- This is most commonly caused by a clogged air intake filter. It
can also be caused by either a kinked or crushed line or
condensation frozen in the line. When the compressor is running the
pressure gauge should indicate between 1 and 8 PSI, depending upon
the depth of water over the diffuser and the length of airline. If
the pressure is at 10 PSI or higher and it air is venting from the
relief valve, there is an obstruction in the line: Check for a
kinked or crushed line. For a new installation it is usually a kink
in the airline. If the unit has been operating for some time, the
intake filter may be clogged: Take out the plastic thumb screw
(marked "IN" on the compressor housing) and replace the filter and
the O-ring. Some spare parts are included with new units, and the
O-ring can be matched at most hardware stores.
- The carbon vanes in the compressor will eventually wear out and
- This may be noticed as lower air flow at the diffuser. The
vanes will eventually break and jam the rotor, or they will shatter
and the motor will run with no output. This can be corrected by the
installation of a repair kit. You can do it yourself, have someone
else do it, or return it to us for the necessary repairs. I will
make on site repairs if it is within a reasonable distance.
Instructions are included below for doing it yourself. You are
welcome to contact us for help with any problem.
Filter Replacement and Repair Kit installation
- Filter Replacement
- The felt filter in the compressor should be replaced a couple
of times a year or more often depending upon how dirty the air is
around the comptessor. 1) Turn off the compressor and let it cool
for a few minutes. 2) Unscrew the plastic thumbscrew on the intake
side of the compressor housing (marked "IN") 3) Pull the felt from
the thumbscrew. 4) Replace it with a new filter. 5) Check the
O-ring seal, if it is flexible and not broken it can be reused; if
it is hard, cracked, or broken, replace it. You can get the O-rings
from us or take the old one to your hardware store and they should
be able to match them.
- Box Filter Replacement
- The filters on the compressor box should be replaced when they
get dirty. Do not let grass and other yard waste block them as this
will restrict cooling air flow. 1) Open the lid and remove the two
small wing nuts holding the filter in place. 2) Pull out the old
filter 3) Replace it with another filter or clean the old one as
best you can. You can get filters form us or you can also buy a
furnace filter at any hardware store, remove the cardboard frame,
and using the old filter for measurements cut out several new ones.
4) Replace the filter and tighten the wing nuts.
- Repair Kit Installation
- For these instructions refer to the exploded view of the
- Repair kit Installation requires some tools and disassembly.
Unplug the power supply! 1) Disconnect
the airline from the aerator. 2) Remove the metal nipple that comes
through the cabinet. 3) Remove the two bolts that hold the
compressor in the cabinet. 4) Turn the compressor on end so the end
with the wiring is up (this will require turning the discharge
plumbing that is attached to the compressor). 5) Remove the end
plate that covers the wires. 6) Note the terminal where the wires
are attached and unplug the wires. Be sure it
is unplugged! 7) Lift the compressor out of the box and set
the box aside. 8) Remove the plumbing from the compressor
(nearly the whole assembly will unscrew as one piece). 9)
Remove both plastic thumbscrews. 10) Remove the five bolts in the
filter housing and remove the housing. 11) Remove the bolts from
the end plate and remove it (this will expose the rotor and vanes).
12) With an allen wrench remove the two bolts holding the
compressor chamber to the back plate and remove the chamber ring.
12) Remove the broken or old vanes, and be sure and
check the slots in the rotor for broken pieces that may be
stuck. 13) Replace the compressor chamber ring
(be sure the rotor is not touching the chamber ring when
you tighten the allen screws). 14) Insert the new vanes
from the repair kit, and check that they fit completely
into the slots and that they move freely. It is
also important that the bevel edge is OUT and that the
bevel follows the contour of the rotor. 15) Replace
the end plate. After tightening it, check to see that the rotor
still turns freely (insert something into the other end of the
motor and move the rotor both ways). 16) It would be wise at this
stage to set the compressor back into the box and reconnect the
wires, plug it in see if runs (it will be very loud). If it does
not, something is binding the rotor. Disassemble and try again. 17)
Put the new gasket on the end plate, and bolt the cover to it using
the 5 bolt seals that are supplied in the repair kit. 18) Replace
the filters and O-rings on the thumbscrews and carefully thread
them into the housing. 19) Replace the compressor plumbing and
reassemble the compressor in the box, and connect the airline. 20)
Connect the power and record the pressure reading on the gage for
later reference. Do not use any lubricant on
the vanes or parts!
Caution: The ice is thin near the
diffuser. It is advisable to shut off the compressor and
allow enough time for the pond to freeze solid before the pond is
to be used for winter sports or recreation! However, not running
the compressor may allow condensation to freeze in in a low spot in the 1/2 inch ID
If condensation is frozen in the line (usually below 20°F.) it
will be in a low spot in the line that retains enough condensation
to freeze solid. Under water sections of the line cannot freeze. A properly working
diffuser will keep the ice open in a circle several feet in
diameter depending upon the air temperature.
Operating the unit all winter is the best insurance against a
winter fish kill. Winter fish kill results when heavy snow blocks
light penetration. This stops plant oxygen production, and this can
cause the death of desirable fish in just a few hours. If the unit
has been turned off for recreational use of the pond, when it is
turned on again it will open even thick ice in a couple of