Description and Installation of KleenPond Aeration Systems

The KleenPond aeration system has shown itself to be a very efficient method of aerating water up to 15 feet deep (deeper water requires a higher pressure compressor). It achieves high oxygen transfer with low maintenance and operating costs. The KleenPond system is easy to install and is easily adaptable to a wide variety of applications from small ponds to larger lakes.

Compressor

The compressor is a 1/4 to 3/4 horse power rotary van oilless unit, designed for continuous duty and low maintenance. They can be wired for 115 or 230 volts. The compressors deliver from from 4 to 10 cubic feet per minute of air at up to ten pounds per square inch of pressure. Each compressor is mounted in a protective cabinet with a circulating fan and filters to provide continuous clean air flow and cooling. The system can be purchased without the protective case if it is to be mounted indoors.

Operating Cost

The operating cost will depend upon the cost of electricity in your area. Determine the cost per kilowatt hour (kWh) from your electric bill (here is is 4.7 cents). Multiply this figure by 283 kWh for the KP523, or 642 kWh for the KP1023. This will give you the cost of operating each unit 24/7. For example 283 X 4.7 = 1330.1 cents per month or $13.31. Using the same formula, the KP1023 would cost $30.17 per month to operate.

Diffusers

The diffusers are self cleaning flexible neoprene sheath mounted on a plastic base. Each diffuser can move 80,000 gallons of water per hour, multiple diffusers may be used depending upon the application. Air is supplied to the diffusers with 1/2 inch PVC line in the water, larger airline is used for long runs to the water.

Installation

1. Decide the location of the compressor cabinet (near an electrical outlet of appropriate voltage) that suits your needs. Preferably a place that is level, that does not collect water, is out of the way of lawn care equipment, and does not obstruct the air intake on the cabinet.
   
   
2. Add additional weight to the diffuser, usually a brick to each side of the base.
   
   
3. Attach the air hose to the compressor; and carefully unroll the hose. If the line kinks, it should be cut at that location and an insert coupling used to repair it. Kinks or crushed sections will severely restrict airflow. Fittings are available at most hardware stores, or you can get them from me.
   
   

   I recommend unrolling the air line along the shore as far as possible, clamp it to the diffuser, add weight to the diffuser, start the compressor so the trail of bubbles marks the diffuser position, then carefully pull the diffuser into the water with a boat while watching that the airline does not catch on obstructions as it is pulled away from the shore. When you reach the place where you want the diffuser, lower it with the float line.

   
   

   A doubled line or rope can also be used instead of a boat for small ponds: start the compressor, put a rope through the diffuser base, keep hold of both ends of the rope and walk around to the far side of the pond, then pull the diffuser into position (bubble location). Let go of one end of the rope, and pull the other until all of the rope is out of the pond.

   
   

   The airline can be unrolled from a boat as it moves away from shore, the diffuser attached in the boat, and then lowered into the water by the float line, but this operation takes quite a bit of coordination, and a helper is usually required. Don't even attemp this on a windy day!

   
   
   

   The airline will float if it is not weighted. Fasten a brick or other convenient weight to the line about every ten feet. The more weights you use, the closer the line will be to the bottom. Be sure you are satisfied with the location of the diffuser before you weight the airline!

   
   
   
   
   
   
4. When the unit is hooked up and running record the pressure reading on the gage for later reference. Many problems can be diagnosed by variations from the normal pressure reading. It should be under 10 PSI. A reading higher than this may indicate a restriction in the airline or water that is too deep for the compressor. High pressure will wear out the compressor vanes quickly!

Manifold installation and operation (two or more diffusers)

An external manifold can be inserted in the line at any convenient location. Two primary concerns are convenience and possible tampering (vandalism). I have placed the manifold out of reach under water on several installations where tampering was a problem. It can also be hidden along the shore in rocks, brush, etc.

There are two basic types of installation for multiple diffusers. One uses a manifold that can be reached from shore. There would be a line running to each diffuser from the manifold. This arrangement uses the most airline and causes the most line loss. The system that uses the least airline and has the least line loss uses one main line down the center or deepest area of the lake. Each diffuser has a valve on it. The diffuser in the deepest water does not need a valve, as that one will be under the most pressure. After the compressor is running and all of the air is flowing to the deepest diffuser, go to the next diffuser, pull it up by the float line and open the valve a little. Then go to the next diffuser and repeat the process. Each diffuser is adjusted in the same way until they are all operating. Another variation which is a combination of the two is to run a main air line down one side of the lake and install a valve at several locations along this line, then run a finger line to each diffuser. Many other variations of these layouts are possible.

Adjustment

Keep in mind that air will follow the path of least resistance. That means it will go to the diffuser in the shallowest water (lowest pressure). With the compressor running, and all valves open, slowly close down the one that is flowing until approximate equal air bubbles are seen at both diffuser locations. In multiple diffuser installations, there may be one diffuser that is difficult to get working. This is usually the one in the deepest water: close all of the valves except this one. After flow is established, slowly open the other valves one at a time until they are all working. This may require a second person to watch from a different location while you adjust the valves.

Correcting Problems Caution: Compressor parts may be HOT!

Too few bubbles, not enough air at the diffuser.

This is most commonly caused by a clogged air intake filter. It can also be caused by either a kinked or crushed line or condensation frozen in the line. When the compressor is running the pressure gauge should indicate between 1 and 8 PSI, depending upon the depth of water over the diffuser and the length of airline. If the pressure is at 10 PSI or higher and it air is venting from the relief valve, there is an obstruction in the line: Check for a kinked or crushed line. For a new installation it is usually a kink in the airline. If the unit has been operating for some time, the intake filter may be clogged: Take out the plastic thumb screw (marked "IN" on the compressor housing) and replace the filter and the O-ring. Some spare parts are included with new units, and the O-ring can be matched at most hardware stores.

The carbon vanes in the compressor will eventually wear out and need replaced.

This may be noticed as lower air flow at the diffuser. The vanes will eventually break and jam the rotor, or they will shatter and the motor will run with no output. This can be corrected by the installation of a repair kit. You can do it yourself, have someone else do it, or return it to us for the necessary repairs. I will make on site repairs if it is within a reasonable distance. Instructions are included below for doing it yourself. You are welcome to contact us for help with any problem.

Filter Replacement and Repair Kit installation

Filter Replacement

The felt filter in the compressor should be replaced a couple of times a year or more often depending upon how dirty the air is around the comptessor. 1) Turn off the compressor and let it cool for a few minutes. 2) Unscrew the plastic thumbscrew on the intake side of the compressor housing (marked "IN") 3) Pull the felt from the thumbscrew. 4) Replace it with a new filter. 5) Check the O-ring seal, if it is flexible and not broken it can be reused; if it is hard, cracked, or broken, replace it. You can get the O-rings from us or take the old one to your hardware store and they should be able to match them.

Box Filter Replacement

The filters on the compressor box should be replaced when they get dirty. Do not let grass and other yard waste block them as this will restrict cooling air flow. 1) Open the lid and remove the two small wing nuts holding the filter in place. 2) Pull out the old filter 3) Replace it with another filter or clean the old one as best you can. You can get filters form us or you can also buy a furnace filter at any hardware store, remove the cardboard frame, and using the old filter for measurements cut out several new ones. 4) Replace the filter and tighten the wing nuts.

Repair Kit Installation

For these instructions refer to the exploded view of the KP523 and 1023.

Repair kit Installation requires some tools and disassembly. Unplug the power supply! 1) Disconnect the airline from the aerator. 2) Remove the metal nipple that comes through the cabinet. 3) Remove the two bolts that hold the compressor in the cabinet. 4) Turn the compressor on end so the end with the wiring is up (this will require turning the discharge plumbing that is attached to the compressor). 5) Remove the end plate that covers the wires. 6) Note the terminal where the wires are attached and unplug the wires. Be sure it is unplugged! 7) Lift the compressor out of the box and set the box aside. 8) Remove the plumbing from the compressor (nearly the whole assembly will unscrew as one piece). 9) Remove both plastic thumbscrews. 10) Remove the five bolts in the filter housing and remove the housing. 11) Remove the bolts from the end plate and remove it (this will expose the rotor and vanes). 12) With an allen wrench remove the two bolts holding the compressor chamber to the back plate and remove the chamber ring. 12) Remove the broken or old vanes, and be sure and check the slots in the rotor for broken pieces that may be stuck. 13) Replace the compressor chamber ring (be sure the rotor is not touching the chamber ring when you tighten the allen screws). 14) Insert the new vanes from the repair kit, and check that they fit completely into the slots and that they move freely. It is also important that the bevel edge is OUT and that the bevel follows the contour of the rotor. 15) Replace the end plate. After tightening it, check to see that the rotor still turns freely (insert something into the other end of the motor and move the rotor both ways). 16) It would be wise at this stage to set the compressor back into the box and reconnect the wires, plug it in see if runs (it will be very loud). If it does not, something is binding the rotor. Disassemble and try again. 17) Put the new gasket on the end plate, and bolt the cover to it using the 5 bolt seals that are supplied in the repair kit. 18) Replace the filters and O-rings on the thumbscrews and carefully thread them into the housing. 19) Replace the compressor plumbing and reassemble the compressor in the box, and connect the airline. 20) Connect the power and record the pressure reading on the gage for later reference. Do not use any lubricant on the vanes or parts!

Winter Operation

Caution: The ice is thin near the diffuser. It is advisable to shut off the compressor and allow enough time for the pond to freeze solid before the pond is to be used for winter sports or recreation! However, not running the compressor may allow condensation to freeze in the 1/2 inch ID airline.

If condensation is frozen in the line (usually below 20° F.) it will be in a low spot in the line that retains enough condensation to freeze solid. There can also be a low spot in a floating section of line that could freeze in the ice layer. Under water sections of the line cannot freeze. A properly working diffuser will keep the ice open in a circle several feet in diameter depending upon the air temperature.

Operating the unit all winter is the best insurance against a winter fish kill. Winter fish kill results when heavy snow blocks light penetration. This stops plant oxygen production, and this can cause the death of desirable fish in just a few hours. If the unit has been turned off for recreational use of the pond, when it is turned on again it will open even thick ice in a couple of hours.